Badolato Marina, Italy

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Badolato Marina, Italy, Sunday, October 15th.

Well…I made it to Pachino…but I didn’t dip my toe in…I went in with pants rolled up and both feet naked.  I was standing at 36 45.575 N 15 03.170 E.  Getting there was easy to begin with but then I had to find some tiny roads that actually went to the water.  Getting back to the autostrada was relatively easy.  It just took a little longer than Dave’s estimation.

As I was coming out of Ispica I could see things shimmering in the sun.  It was difficult to stare as the road required a bit of attention so I didn’t figure out what was shimmering until I got on the road to Pachino.  Thousands of miniature green house type shelters made of plastic drapped over arched poles.  They’re very long and completely cover most of the fields.  Don’t know what they are growing under those shelters but I also saw a lot of wharehouse type buildings implying that whatever they grow, there’s lots of them and they get transported somewhere.  Lots of tall grass growing too, at least 4 or 5 metres.  In some places I was driving in a valley with these tall wavy things growing on either side.

The beach and ground moving inland remind me of the situation at Juno Beach on that other D-Day.  The beach is flat, the ground behind is flat, which probably explains why the landings here were so successful…surprise aside.  It would have been relatively easy to move inland especially if all those tiny roads I followed were there back then.

I spent the next 7 hours on the road, tavelling to Messina on the autostrada…cost me E3.70.

I’m going to pause to make a few comments about driving in Italy.  There seem to be only two rules…drive too slow or drive too fast.  Nothing in the middle…well…in the middle are the guys driving too fast to get past the guys driving too slow.  The Italians have made an art of turning a two lane road into a three lane road.  Sometimes the road is actually a parking lot so not only do you get two lanes but you get parking as well.  I am glad that I have a car that can scoot.  At one point the speed was posted at 120.  I got in the too fast lane and hit 150.  I don’t drive comfortably at 150 so I was soon back in the lane less travelled.  You do have to pay attention though.  I passed several people in the 120 zone who were doing 70.

As I approached Catania the view of Etna was incredible.  I did stop, once I was past the city and through the toll gate, to take a shot but my image just doesn’t do it justice.

At Messina I missed the exit for the ferry so had to ramble around the streets of Messina until I found it.  It costs E 37.00 to make the crossing from Messina to San Giovanni.  Once on board I decided to eat something so I bought one of those cone shaped rice ball thingmys that Dave and Barb introduced me to.  Their version was much better than the version offered me…I did eat it though.

Once off the ferry I found it quite easy to get lost again.  Since I’m in the toe of the boot I did not expect to see road signs for Taranto, which is way up north.  That’s where I missed my turn and ended up rambling around the streets of Reggio di Calabria.  I really miss my trusty navigator who is at home knitting cloths for our grandaughter.

On September 3rd 1943, 10 Bty crossed the Straits of Messina to a beach just north of Reggio.  From there Monty, who seemed to think the Canadians liked mountains, sent them straight up the middle of the toe of the boot, which is all mountains.  They worked there way slowly up to Cittanova as demolished bridges and mines continued to frustrate the advance.  There was some opposition from Italian units, but by and large infantry units of 1st Div encountered relatively light resistance…there did not appear to be any Germans about.  10 Bty did not go into action at all.

Another pause to reflect on the role of the engineers.  My view of their job changed dramatically after seeing that curvy little road that crossed a river at the bottom of a ravine in Leonforte.  In order to advance across a very heavily fortified and advantageous defensive postition, our engineers built a Bailey Bridge, under fire and at night.  I believe this was the first example during the war of a Bailey Bridge being deployed in combat.  If you don’t know what a Bailey Bridge looks like (and you happen to live in Kingston, Ontario) go to the the RMC grounds and on the left just before you enter the grounds, is a Sherman Tank sitting in the middle of a Bailey Bridge.

But…I digress.  We all know that infantry (foot sloggers) can cover any ground, any time, any where.  If they do it on their own the chances of survival are significantly decreased.  What those foot sloggers want is armour and artillery to support them.  In fact that combination of three elements bodes pourly for the enemy.  The trouble is getting the armour and artillery close to or within range of the foot sloggers.  That’s where the engineers come into play.  They fix the roads, build new bridges, clear the minefields…in other words they open the way and often within sight of the enemy and under incredible duress.

Leonforte was just one example of the incredible support role played by our engineers.  That role continued in every major and minor action our boys were involved in.

……….

On September 8th 10 Bty learned of the unconditional surrender of Italy.  This apparently called for a rum ration for all ranks.  Didn’t think my Dad liked rum??

With the fall of the Italian resistance Monty sent the Canadians to the beach for a vacation.  Actually they went down to the coastal road at Locri, the route nationale, where they quickly discovered going was better.  I made sure the going was better for me too as I stopped at the intersection where they would have joined S106 and filled the tank. I was actually getting worried about fuel because I could not find a single open gas station..lots of them around…but all closed.  Must be a Sunday in Italy thing.  I did find a self serve pump where I just had to insert my Visa in exchange for diesel…not a soul around.

I was also getting tired, after all I’d put on 498.2 k since leaving Modica at 08:30 (Yes…getting lost counts as travel time).  I thought that after Locri, which had been my original destination for the day, that I would start to seriously look for accommodation for the night.

I pulled into one place that seemed to have a bus tour on hand but they all starred at me as if I was not wanted so I left.  I pulled off the road to another “hotel” but it looked as if I’d have to ransom my first born to stay there.  I saw B&B sign (which in Italian is B&B) but when I went to investigate there was no one home.

As I scooted through Badalto Marina I saw the black and chrome sign for the Pansini Hotel (and in small letters “residence”).  The building was black and chrome too but I thought I saw a light on.  Sure enough…there was a light on but the door was locked.  I thought there might be another door and as I stood there contemplating alternatives, a woman came out of the dark…inside the building…waving to me to wait.  She opened the door and told me she didn’t speak inglese….but she had a camera singola for the night.  I parted with E60.00 and she gave me the keys to the front door and camera 110 on the primo piano.  She also pointed down the road and said “due ristorante”.  Sounded good to me.

I’m just back from one of the “ristorante”.  A pizza place that had fine linen and a very nice local vino rosso.  The pizza was perfect but I think I ate too much.  I’ll probably dream in Italian tonight.

Stand Down.